2013 International Chef Of The Year: Albert Adrià
Energetic yet easygoing, jocular yet still serious, ascendant but approachable, among his colleagues, Albert Adrià just might currently be one of the world's most admired and well-liked chefs — one whose brother just happens to be Ferran Adrià, one of the most famous chefs in the world. Having started at elBulli at the age of 15, Albert practically grew up in the restaurant, honing his craft and eventually collaborating to devise many of the imaginative approaches to cuisine that enchanted patrons and earned the place a reputation for daring and perfection even among those who had only heard about it.
Read: The Daily Meal's Chefs of the Year for 2013
Read: 2013 American Chef of the Year: Dan Barber
Ferran Adrià has always acknowledged Albert as his most important collaborator at elBulli and in other projects. "I've always said that Albert has had the great misfortune of being my brother," he told Food & Wine. "I sincerely believe he is the best cook I've ever known." Once overshadowed, Albert has emerged in the past few years as a key figure in his own right. With four Barcelona restaurants in vastly different idioms, all of them full of magic and all evincing Albert's fascinating visions of what food and restaurants should be.[pullquote:right]
Refusing to be limited or intimidated by his ties to elBulli, Albert volunteers that he sees some of the work at his own restaurants not as stagnation, but as a prolongation of the unique style inherited from elBulli, "but one that isn't willing to imitate it." How's that for impressive? And impress he has, drawing admiration from chefs like David Chang ("If Ferran is God, then Albert is Jesus"), and accolades from the likes of TIME magazine, which this year named him one of the 13 gods of food. We have a feeling that the two Michelin stars he was awarded this year (one each for the adjacent Tickets and 41º) are just the beginning.
For these reasons, we're pleased to announce that chef Albert Adrià was singled out by The Daily Meal and its past honorees as 2013's International Chef of the Year (joined this year by The Daily Meal's 2013 American Chef of the Year Dan Barber).
We reached out to the chefs to discover where they, and along with them the state of food, may be heading. In this interview with Albert Adrià, the chef discusses the changes at his restaurant 41º and whether he considers it to be a continuation of the spirit of elBulli; whether he would ever open a restaurant in America; his plans to open a Mexican restaurant; and what era he'd like to visit for its food if he could time-travel. We also asked him 12 Actor's Studio-type questions about his first food memories, his heroes and villains, his favorite sandwich (no surprise there), and what qualities he looks for when he's hiring a chef, among other things.
Should chefs be socially and politically active, or should they just cook good food, responsibly produced?
That's a good question. In the end, it's up to the chef the degree of social involvement that he wants to have. It is true that nowadays it is considered a profession with social weight, and I'd like to think that we are activists in social causes rather than political ones, but everyone is free to choose. In my case I'm not interested at all in being a person whose focus is on being socially active.
Why did you decide to change 41º from a bar to a restaurant with an extensive tasting menu?
Because we were doing 120 people at a time, but in reality we were working for 20, which were the ones that lived the experience of having cocktails and snacks. The rest were barely having a drink. The intention was to open a new 41º with more capacity in order to attend to the patrons with more resources. This idea has been delayed until the end of 2014. Soon, the new 41º will be a nice reality.
What is behind a successful tasting menu?
To propose a tasting menu is very risky, and it's a formula that even if I apply it in Pakta and 41º, I do it with a lot of respect, all the more so because of the large number of allergies and intolerances nowadays. But I think that when you do a tasting menu, it's because there's something that needs to be told, because there's a story being proposed that needs to be told, a philosophy of work, a style that needs to be born. In other words, with a tasting menu you buy the time of the customer, and because you mark the beginning and the end, therefore you must have a very serious proposal for the meal at every step of the way.
Do you consider 41º to be a continuation of the spirit of elBulli, allowing diners to taste dishes that they could imagine eating at the restaurant?
I worked for 23 years at elBulli, and elBulli forms part of my life. Certainly, 41º is the place that could be the most alike, but there are huge differences. At elBulli we worked to be the best. At 41º I simply focus on people to make them enjoy good cuisine. Furthermore, I think we are inheriting a unique style that to some extent is a prolongation of elBulli but one that isn't willing to imitate it.
You have described Bodega 1900 as the restaurant you would have opened in 1900 if you'd have been alive. If you could time-travel, what era would you want to visit, and where?
If we're talking about gastronomy, the Viking banquets, Roman bacchanals, Renaissance dinners, lavish banquets at the French Court. Now those would not have been bad at all...
You have opened a Peruvian-Japanese restaurant and are planning a Mexican restaurant. What other cuisines interest you enough that you might consider?
The Mexican restaurant is going to open at the end of April of 2014. I'm interested in all kind of cuisines, but the question is which is the one that is of the most interest to customers? I really like Chinese cuisine, with its inexhaustible recipes that are able to create the most incredible things.
You've recently received Michelin stars for Tickets and 41º — how important are reviews to you? And are you anticipating any critic reviews on the horizon from anyone worth noting?
One works to be happy and to make others happy. Prizes are nothing but a consequence of the first thing. It is true, however, that you are then put on the map for people who are potential future clients. All critics are important, as well as all the customers — at least this is what I have to think.
Would you ever open a restaurant in America, or anywhere else outside Spain? If not, do you have any other upcoming new plans you can share?
There does exist a possibility of opening a restaurant in New York City. I have some apprehension but also feel excitement about the idea. I'd love for Americans to enjoy a culinary endeavor of mine.
Are you actively working with the elBulli Foundation, and if so, what is your role?
I'm one of the owners, but my role is at Ferran's disposal. For me it's an honor to be part of the continuation of elBulli.
Is there a chef who challenges you?
The New York project I already mentioned is my big and last challenge, it's also an incredible project, which at the moment I can't say anything else about. Who inspires me to greater things? I have enough with myself, to be inspired to do greater things.
Where are the most interesting things in food happening today?
Uff, now I don't travel much these days. I don't think I'm the most informed person to answer that. I've always found an interesting place to see ideas: the streets.
Who would your choice for chef of the year be?
Luckily I'm friends with many of the best ones. It would be unkind to mention just one person.
A few quick, 12 Actor's Studio-type questions that we asked the chef to answer in as few words as possible:
What's your favorite flavor? The flavor that results from the combination of the ingredients that go into pizza — a good one, of course.
What's your first food memory? El pollo a l'ast (Catalan roast chicken).
What one food can't you stand? I have a hard time eating worms or other insects.
When did you first realize that you were going to be a chef? For better or for worse, when I was 15 years old I was already working at elBulli.
What's your favorite tool in the kitchen? The brain.
What qualities do you look for when you're hiring a chef? Honesty and humility.
What's your favorite sandwich? The Iberico ham sandwich.
What's your favorite alcoholic drink? A good tequila.
What are you reading right now? I don't have much time because what I do is writing instead of reading. At the moment, I'm preparing the books for my restaurants.
If you weren't a chef, what would you be? An advertising agent or movie director.
Who are your heroes? Those who help others.
Who are your villains? The idiots and intolerants.
Chefs of the Year 2012
Interview with Chef of the Year, America: José Andrés — Chef Andrés talks about tasting menus, time travel, social responsibility, working outside your comfort zone, the state of food in America, and why Spanish chefs love gin and tonic.
Interview with Chef of the Year, International: Massimo Bottura — Chef Bottura talks about the challenges of having some of the world's best ingredients, the importance of narrative, and the secret behind a successful tasting menu.
Chefs of the Year 2011
— The chef discusses whether Next is worth the work, chefs who blow him away, the possibility of a Next food truck, and reveals how Alinea might change, including the possibility of closing it in Chicago and going on the road.
Click for 2011 Chef of the Year, International: René Redzepi — The chef discusses refurbishing Noma; its homemade wine, beer, and schnapps program; weather as narrative; how to become a stagiare at Noma; and how his culinary philosophy can be applied outside Scandinavia.
Arthur Bovino is The Daily Meal's executive editor. Read more articles by Arthur, reach him by email, or click here to follow Arthur on Twitter.